1st day of big surf

Okay, maybe by Australian standards it was a medium sized day but 7+ ft on the face is plenty big compared to the average waist to chest high wave I surfed in FL.  Felt good to paddle into some bombs and come out alive.  I've been surfing a 6'3" CI Flyer or 6'6" Warner since I've been here and today was the first day I was glad I had more board under my feet.  Of course I took a few on the head but that was to be expected.  Can't wait to get my own board(s) so I can mount the GoPro on it and get some good footage of me barely surviving the curtain drops (closeout wave that breaks on top of you for all you non-surfers).  The below pics aren't of where I surfed this morning (surfed on the north end of Dee Why, called Long Reef, so I could get some lefts) but here's what Dee Why point looked like in the afternoon.  Too tired to paddle out again so I'll just live vicariously through these guys.